Manav Singhi: Gatore ki Chhatris (Maharaja)

Gatore ki Chhatris (Maharaja)

Gatore ki Chhatri, Jaipur or Maharajaoen ki Chhatri or Gaitore or Cenotaphs of Kings.

How can a ‘memory’ be kept alive? In our talks or in our fables? But gradually, the vibrant colors of memories start to fade away and slowly and slowly layers of dust cover them up.

But how can our Rajas and Maharajas lack in preserving the grandeur of their dynasty and keeping alive their memories for centuries? Their efforts to make death immortal are commendable. However, death is usually associated with lament but they converted this sorrow into a ‘Saga of the Past’. The most beautiful and elegant specimen is this saga is the famous ‘Gaitore ki Chhatriyan’ of Jaipur. It is the royal cremation ground for the majestic rulers of Rajasthan. Have you ever wondered that a crematorium can be a spot of tourist attraction?

This magnificent architecture built like a crematorium, not only adorns Jaipur but also commemorates the dynasty of our Kings and Maharajas. It is a treasure trove of alluring stone work.

It is believed that the ‘Gaitore ki Chhatriyan’ is derived from the phrase ‘Gaye Ka Thor’- meaning ‘a place dedicated to souls of the departed Kings’ and thus named Gaitore. Various ‘chhatris’, umbrella shaped or domed pavilions have been built, adorned with ornate carvings, supported by delicately sculpted pillars. Hence, the place has been rightly named as ‘Gaitore ki Chhatriyan’. Here, deceased were cremated with due honor and prestige and these cenotaphs were built commemorating them. The edifice symbolizes a ‘memorial’ built in the memory of the prestigious and dignified Kachchawa dynasty of Jaipur. It houses mausoleums of entire dynasty from Sawai Jai Singh II to Sawai Madho Singh II, that ruled over Jaipur from 1727 A.D. to 1947 A.D. Chhatri of Sawai Ishwari Singh is not present here as his mausoleum is situated behind Govind Dev Ji Temple, in the Jai Niwas Garden. Extravagance of each chhatri reflects the stature and prowess of a particular king. It is believed that Sawai Jai Singh II himself chose this place, in the 18th century, as the final abode of the Kachchawas of Jaipur.

This memorial of Gaitore is located just down the hill of Garh Ganesh temple, also known as Ganesh Garh. And from the other side, it lies in the foothills of Nahargarh. This treasure trove of Gaitore is located right next to the place from where road to Garh Ganesh starts to ascend.

Wrapped in historicism, surrounded by lush green and massive hills on its three sides, this place has become a captivating attraction. The ramparts and fort of Ganesh Garh upwards, the picturesque view of Nahargarh, the convoy of moving vehicles uphill and the pleasure of watching mesmerizing waterfalls flowing down in the rainy seasons will give you heavenly view of this abode and adds to its charm.

The cupolas are built on raised platforms or terraced pavilions supported by beautifully carved pillars and are surrounded by stone lattices. The side walls of these platforms are not simple, even they too are decorated with intricately carved floral designs.

Its chowk or courtyard is divided into 3 sections with the oldest being farthest from the entrance. The chhatri of Sawai Jai Singh II founder of the Jaipur city, stands at the center of the courtyard. It is said that it is made up of Taj marble or white Makrana marble which is considered to be the finest quality of marble.

The chhatris has 20 exquisitely carved pillars. The dome or the cupola is placed over an octagon. The brackets supporting this octagon are carved beautifully in the shape of elephant trunk. These brackets join with the pillars. These pillars have lotus like carving at both of their ends- the pedestal and the ceiling. Women figurines or better referred as ‘apsaras’ can be seen inside the dome over the joint of architrave and pillars. The cornice has been designed delicately by depicting beautiful scenes from Hindu Mythology like Ram, Krishna, Sheshnag, Samudra Manthan, holy procession and so on. Even the stylobate has not been left undecorated, it has a beautiful floral boundary and pictures of horses, elephants, warriors with weapons in separate block form or perhaps they depicted royal games like horse polo, elephant polo, hunting activity. Or probably, this signified cavalry, infantry or army of the king. As Sawai Jai Singh II was considered to be a true warrior, he was Mansabdar in Mughal court as well as he was king of Jaipur, may be these scenes are related to this dauntless character. This can thus be considered as the finest specimen of craftmanship of the artist.

Although, being made up of fine white marble, it has now become dull and somewhat pale but still it is the most magnificent of all the chhatris present here.

Just behind the chhatri of Sawai Jai Singh Ji, there lies mausoleum of Sawai Ram Singh. It considered to be a replica of Sawai Jai Singh’s chhatri. As it resembles, Sawai Jai Singh’s chhatri, it also has an exact depiction of those royal games of scenes from army. It is said that it is built up of Italian Marble.

The next chhatri which needs our mention is of Sawai Madho Singh, most ornate and elaborate of all chhatris. The chhatri made in his memory is commissioned by Sawai Pratap Singh. It is a unique combination of stone and marble work. Its structure corresponds to that of Taj Mahal to some extent. The two stone made lions at the entrance seems to be the watch guard. As soon as you step forward, your feet rhythms to see the fine and intricate carvings and designs.

This chhatri is structured over the pillars placed octagonally. Moreover, it is adorned with ventilated octagonal windows. Standing in the center, you can have a look at the open verandas on all the four sides. A way to go to upstairs is in the north direction of the mausoleum. Here you can have the spectacular view of chhatris all around. They are 12 in number. Four large chhatris have been built on four corners along with eight small chhatris.

This memorial is evident of art and craft splendor of Jaipur. Stone used here is the special Redstone of Karauli and of ‘Raay wale ki khan’ near Ramgarh. Scenes of traditional procession of elephant, horses etc. from Janani Deori to Sanganeri Gate are beautifully depicted over the marble panels outside the chhatri.

The temple of Hanumanji is situated at Sanganeri gate and the majestic Hawa Mahal are clearly visible from here.

Apart from this, two other chhatris are also located in this compound – One of Sawai Prithvi Singh and Sawai Jagat Singh II. Smaller size indicating probably their brief period of reigns.

The third courtyard has three tombs: - One of Sawai Madho Singh II, second of Sawai Man Singh II and the third belonging to Sawai Man Singh II – Bhavani Singh. All of these three have exquisite carvings and meticulous retails. However, their size differs but they are no less commendable in grandeur.

As soon as you cross the door, your eyes catch the sight of a large Ficus tree and a large mausoleum consisting of small tombs. These memories belong to those children who could not enjoy the pleasure of the royal house for long. They are also known as ‘Das-daasiyon Ke Pardayton Ka Smarak’. Altogether there are 14 memorials. There is a large chhatri in the center of it – it is named as ‘Baiji Ki Samadhi’. It is said to have been dedicated to the daughter of Maharaja Madho Singh and Maharani Jojan Bai.

This large mausoleum comprising of several small memorials are built in the memory of 120 children. These children were born from concubines.

One interesting fact about this winsome place is that few years ago, (few or may be many, no one knows) as soon as the sun dropped down and the dusk draped the beautiful environs, people came to lit lamps here with honor and prestige in their hearts for their kings. Lighting lamps signified ‘paying tribute’ to their kings. But with the passing moments, this beautiful activity disappeared.

Well one thing that can be concluded from this journey to Gaitore is that apart from being one of the lesser explored tourist attractions, it is one of the finest specimens of architecture. It lists itself among the most beautifully designed and well maintained cenotaphs of Rajasthan. Distinct design, excellent workmanship, exquisite carvings, serenity all around, spectacular views surrounding it, environs providing solitude altogether provides a perfect blend. It is indeed an architectural wonder that will make your eyes stuck at every next step.

Apart from being one of the lesser explored tourist attraction Distinct design, excellent workmanship, exquistic carvings serenity all around, spectacular views surroundings it, environs providing solitude altogether provides a perfect blend. Still, it is one of the lesser explored tourist.

Photography by Manav Singhi - Article by Garima Gupta